This program will let you price your cabinets per piece or linear footage or square footage. The process is seamless and highly efficient. Pro100 enables users to build detailed models of cabinets and dynamically calculate pricing based on materials, finishes, and additional customizations
We are thrilled to introduce you Kray a fresh and strong Pro100 plugin that is meant to make your presentation to a higher level. This is a complimentary accessory, which is completely priceless to interior designers, remodelers, and kitchen designers, who emphasize on impressive aesthetics. Kray is another mandatory feature that you ought to learn because it can improve your presentation style of your work.
If you are a cabinet or closet maker, you definitely need a job estimating tool to calculate your project. Every job is different and so is the time spent to complete the task. An optimized cutting diagram can save you significant amount of time and money once you lay your hands on a good job costing software.
Angled walls are the normal case, not the exception. Almost no room is truly square — framing drifts, plaster builds up in the corners, an old house settles, and a bay or a chamfered return was never at 90° to begin with. If you draw the room as a rectangle and discover the truth on installation day, you are scribing fillers on site and explaining the gap to the customer. This page is about getting the room into Pro100 as it actually is. For the carcass geometry of the cabinets that go into it, see angled and corner cabinets.
A tape along each wall tells you how long the walls are. It tells you nothing about the angles between them, and the angles are what will bite you. Two things fix that.
Take the diagonals. In a room you believe is rectangular, measure corner to corner both ways. Equal diagonals mean square. Unequal means it is not, and the difference tells you how far out. This takes thirty seconds and is the single most useful measurement on a remodel.
Triangulate the corners you doubt. From the corner, mark a point a fixed distance along one wall and another along the second wall, then measure between the marks. Those three lengths define the angle exactly, and you can enter them straight into a drawing. For a corner you expect to be square, the 3-4-5 check is the quick version: 3 along one wall, 4 along the other, and the hypotenuse is 5 if the corner is true.
Write down what you measured, not what you assumed. A note saying "back wall 134°, not 135" is worth more than a tidy plan that is wrong. Pro100 will take the real number without complaint.
Walls in Pro100 are placed by length and angle, so a wall at 112° is no harder to draw than one at 90°. Chamfered corners, bays, alcoves, splayed returns and rooms that simply are not true all go in as measured. The angled walls feature page shows the tools; this is about using them well.
A few habits save rework:
This is where an out-of-square room costs money, and it is a different problem from building an angled cabinet. The boxes are ordinary; it is the junction between the run and the wall that has to absorb the error.
If the corner itself is being filled with an angled unit rather than a filler, that is the cabinet problem, and angled and corner cabinets has the geometry and the calculators for it.
Anything continuous has to turn the corner at whatever angle the room gives it. Crown molding mitres at half the corner angle, which is why a 135° corner needs 22.5° cuts and not 45° — the crown molding guide goes into the cuts. Baseboard behaves the same way. Flooring is worth setting in the model too, because a board direction that looks fine in a rectangle can run awkwardly across a splayed wall and it is cheaper to notice on screen.
The reason to draw the room honestly is that everything downstream inherits it. A 3D render of a room drawn as a rectangle shows a kitchen that cannot be built; drawn as measured, the photorealistic view is something you can hand over with confidence, and panoramic views let the customer stand in the corner that worried them. High resolution images go in the quote.
On the shop side the same model produces the cut list with the tapered and filler parts included, the panel optimizer nesting them, the shop drawing with the real angles dimensioned, and job costing that prices the fillers and scribes instead of absorbing them. The cut list walkthrough shows the output in detail.
| Work | What the angle does to it |
|---|---|
| Kitchen remodeling | Settled framing and built-up plaster. The most common source of a corner that is a degree or two off. |
| Kitchen design | Bays, chamfered returns and galley ends that were never square. |
| Closet design | Under-stair and loft spaces, where almost nothing is at 90°. See also closet layouts. |
| Bathroom remodeling | Small rooms where a few millimetres of error leaves a vanity that will not go in. |
| Commercial shops and office fit-outs | Reception areas and partitioned spaces built to a plan that the building did not follow. |
| Interior design | Presenting a room as it is, so the client approves something that can actually be installed. |
The gallery has rooms of each kind, drawn and rendered in Pro100.
Triangulate it. Measure a fixed distance along each wall from the corner, then measure between those two marks. Three lengths define the angle with no protractor and no guesswork, and they are easy to take on your own. An angle finder is quicker if you have one, but it is only as good as the flatness of the two surfaces you rest it on — near a corner, that is often the problem.
No. Everything after the walls depends on them: the floor area, the runs, the countertop, the quote. Fixing it later means redoing all of it, and the usual outcome is that it never gets fixed and the error is discovered on site.
If the diagonals of a room you expected to be rectangular differ by more than about a quarter of an inch, draw it as it is. Below that a scribe absorbs it. Above it, the gap will show at the end of a long run, because the error accumulates along the whole wall rather than staying where it started.
Usually not. Ordinary boxes with a scribe filler handle a wall that is slightly off. Angled cabinets are for corners you are deliberately cutting across — that is a different job, and angled and corner cabinets covers it.
Yes, and for out-of-square work many people prefer it. Pro100 works in inches or millimetres and you can switch without redrawing.
Beginner's guide · angled and corner cabinets · Angled cabinet features · Angled walls feature page · Tutorial videos · Full video list · Documentation · FAQ · Custom cabinetry · Door styles · Custom doors
Take the diagonals, put the real angles in, and see the kitchen before you build it. An out-of-square room is the cheapest problem to solve on screen and the most expensive to solve on site.
Already decided? See pricing, or talk to us about your shop.
Angled and corner cabinets are where a kitchen job either comes together or goes back on the trailer. The geometry is simple enough on paper and unforgiving on site: a corner that is two degrees out, a back panel that fouls the wall return, a door that will not clear the run beside it. This page has the nine calculators our customers asked for, and the method we use to build angled cabinets in Pro100 so the cut list, the shop drawing and the render all come off one model.
Straight to the numbers: all nine calculators · corner setback · angled face width · clipped corners · how to build one in Pro100 · common questions
Nine calculators for the measurements that come up on an angled job: the setback on a corner that is not 90°, the width of the angled face, the mitre on a clipped corner, and the diagonals on a top with one or more corners cut off. Enter what you have measured and press Calculate. Everything runs in your browser — nothing is sent anywhere, and nothing is stored.
If you are not sure which one you need, the drawing on each card labels every side and angle with the same letter as its field. The two corner-cabinet calculators solve the same equation from opposite ends: use find the angled face when you know how far the cabinet runs along each wall, and find side A when the face width is fixed and you need to know how far it reaches.
An angled cabinet is a box with one face rotated, and almost every problem traces back to something that rotation changed and nobody re-checked.
Open a new project and go to the Shape Editor. Rather than taking a stock cabinet and trying to cut it about, draw the plan of the carcass you actually want — the two runs along the walls and the angled face between them. Work counter-clockwise; the editor expects it, and the panels come out facing the right way when you do. The step-by-step is on using the Shape Editor, and working with angled cabinets covers the cabinet-specific cases.
Measure the real corner before you draw anything. Put that angle and your depth into the setback calculator and you have the face width to draw to. If the corner is genuinely square and you are building a standard 45° clip, the 45° calculator gives you the two equal sides from the diagonal in one step.
When you add doors or a face frame, rotate the cabinet so the angled face runs left to right rather than on the diagonal. Attach the doors and the frame, then rotate it back. The cabinet is far easier to modify afterwards if it was built that way, and door styles from your catalog drop on without fighting the angle.
Once the shape is right, everything downstream comes off it: the cut list with real angled dimensions, the panel optimizer nesting those parts, the dimensioned shop drawing for the bench, job costing for the quote, and the 3D render for the client. Change the angle and all of them change together. That is the whole point — one model, not five documents that have to be kept in step by hand. Shops running CNC get the same parts out with the mitres intact.
The video below builds a corner cabinet from scratch, including the back support cut-out that makes installation straightforward. More are on tutorial videos and the full video list.
The corner is the obvious one, but the same geometry shows up across the trade. Kitchen design uses it for corner bases and for softening the end of a run. Closet design uses it for corner returns, which is where closets most often go wrong. Garage cabinetry uses angled toe kicks and clipped corners to keep walkways clear. Refacers meet it whenever an existing corner turns out not to be square. Commercial shops meet it on reception desks and counters, which are angled far more often than kitchens are. The gallery has examples of each, all drawn in Pro100.
| Measurement | What it affects |
|---|---|
| Corner angle | Everything downstream. Measure it; do not assume 90°. |
| Side panel depth | Sets the angled face width for a given run. The face calculator works it out. |
| Face width | Decides whether one door or two, and which hinge. |
| Back cut-out | Clearance for the wall return, pipework and services behind the corner. |
| Door swing | Must clear the adjacent run through its full arc, not just at 90°. |
| Countertop overhang | Measured perpendicular to the angled face, so it needs setting separately from the flat runs. |
| Toe kick return | Mitres at the corner; the 45° calculator gives the two equal legs. |
Most corner cabinets are built at 45°, which puts the face at 135° to each run and lets a standard door and hinge work without modification. The angle only has to change when the walls themselves are not square, and on a remodel they rarely are. Measure the actual corner, put that figure into the setback calculator above, and build to what the room gives you rather than to what the plan assumes.
Take the length of each side that runs along the wall, the depth of the side panel and the corner angle, and the angled face calculator returns the face width. It is the same equation the side A calculator solves backwards, so you can work from whichever two measurements you already have on the job.
Nearly always one of three things: the corner is not the angle the plan assumed, the back corner of the carcass is fouling the wall return or the pipework behind it, or the door swing was never checked against the adjacent run. The first is a measuring problem, and the calculators on this page fix it. The second and third are modelling problems — build the cabinet in 3D with the Shape Editor and you see the clash before you cut.
Yes. The cut list comes off the same model as the render, so an angled part is listed with its real dimensions and its mitre, not as a rectangle you have to work out afterwards. Change the angle and the list changes with it. The panel optimizer then nests those parts, angled ones included, and the shop drawing dimensions the same geometry for the bench.
No. The calculators on this page do the trigonometry, and inside Pro100 you draw the shape and the software resolves the geometry. The reason to understand what is going on is to catch a bad input — if a result looks wrong for the room in front of you, it usually is, and it is almost always the angle that was mismeasured.
The calculators are unit-agnostic: put inches in and you get inches out, put millimetres in and you get millimetres out. Pro100 itself works in either, and you can switch without rebuilding the job.
Same geometry, different host. A run against a wall that is not at 90° is covered on working with angled walls, and the angled walls feature page shows how the walls themselves are drawn. The calculators here apply to both — a 135° corner behaves the same whether it is a carcass or a room.
Beginner's guide if you are new to Pro100 · Working with angled walls for rooms that are not square · Crown molding for the mitres above the cabinet · Standard and custom cabinetry · Photorealistic presentation · Documentation · Frequently asked questions · System requirements
Build the corner, check the door swing, pull the cut list. The calculators above tell you the numbers; Pro100 tells you whether the cabinet actually fits.
Already decided? See pricing, or talk to us about your shop.
Pro100 is an excellent tool if you are a cabinet or closet maker. You can generate a cut list by just a simple click of a mouse once your project is complete.
This page will walk you through the basic steps on how to use Pro100 as a beginner. We assume you already installed the program and ready to go. This applies to both demo and full versions.
Crown molding can add tremendous value to just about any room within a building. It can be used in cabinets, baseboards and ceilings.
